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 Post subject: LED Back Light Strips
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 9:37 pm 

Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2019 7:31 pm
Posts: 21
Anyone have any e-cycling solutions or buyers sources for the LED Back Light Strips, that are in the LCD/LED TVs and monitors?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 1:43 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
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Location: Low DOS
I sell them to my wire buyer as #3 mixed non-copper.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 12:22 am 

Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2019 9:17 am
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Each l.e.d requires about 3v if I read correctly online. If you have a broken screen only, take that crap off(the broken glass) and the film's and whatnot, exposing JUST the light strips...


Now turn it on.


You shouldn't be able to read this as you are temporarily blind from the grid of little pewnie led lights banding together to kick your retinas down your neck.

For smaller kick in the eyes, find some DC power cords. 3v for each l.e.d. snap the light strip where ever you need to, from the end with no wires. 12v 4 lights. Examine the strips closely, they will be labeled + - scratch the paint off and carefully connect positive to positive negitive to negitive and BAM!

JK

it's not as bright, but still very bright. Good workbench lights. Slim. Fit in small places. Easy to stick underneath hidden from the uninterested eye.

I know nothing about electronics, so if this is not a good idea, please someone speak up. Lol

Here's my hurddle as someone knowing nothing about electronics: I want ALL the lights to light up. But I can't find a DC power supply that's 3x as many lights there are on the whole grid. But I really want to be able to use the whole grid of lights without actually carrying around a TV with no screen. Anyone explain how to do this? To get the DC voltage high enough to push the whole grid. I tried examining the board and tracing the circut to see what components are within but I may have perminant eye damage from staring at too many screenless TVs....

K I'm done :)


Edit: you may get the sensation you might have just been deneurolized by agent k of the MIB. This is not the case, any memory loss is due to whatever you smoke or drink. I'm not responsible for your stupidity.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
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Location: Low DOS
Assuming your serious here.
I’m not sure where you got 3 volts from. That’s rather high. Unless you’re runnng a very long strip. Most led bars (strips of pcb wire board with leds on them) are usually 1.25 or 1.5 volt feed.

Informing you up front I never did this exact build.
You’ll need fairly low end led back light strips from a low end television. They have three wire etches along the board row. Occasionally 4. If you see five or more, or a single long feed etch that breaks off into each led, this won’t work. Those are addressable location boards and use a controller. In the dormant off state they are all off. Not all on. Meaning simply plugging it in to the board in will accomplish... darkness.

In the most direct method you’d need some medium gage wire, a battery terminal bracket, solder, and a AA or AAA battery. Strip the ends of the wire. Solder, staple, or otherwise mount the battery terminal safely to the back of the board. Solder the wires from the terminals to the corresponding lands on the board. Pop in the battery and enjoy single intensity lighting.

If you want to get fancier you can add (or make) a variable power dial between the battery and the board. Allowing you to adjust the intensity of the light by turning the dial up or down.

You can also use mains power if you add an AC/DC converter, but now we’re adding weight and bulk and making things more difficult.

Honestly though, you’re reinventing the wheel here. Go to the hardware store and buy a portable led pocket flashlight. They’re a cylinder a few inches long. About the thickness of a quality machine made cigar. They have 4-12 leds on one end and a button on the other. Almost always made of aluminium. They take 1-2 AA, 2-3 AAA, or 2-4 AAAA batteries. They cost 99č-$9.99 depending on extra features. Such as... some have multiple colours. Depending on the number of time you push the button. Or can change the intensity: 2 to 4 setting usually.

This is exactly what I described you try to build. A PCB (more accurately a PWEB) with leds on it. Attached to a battery terminal. With a switched fuse running through the button with wires attached. You’ll spend more doing your own than buying one in materials.

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