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I tried to remove the shield from 2 gold finger ram cards. i apparently pulled some of the black things off (see pics). Where do i need to sort them?

If i decide not to pry off the shields next time, how would i sort them?

The black things are the ram modules. The one on the left looks nearly bare? If so blank ram. The other will still clear the standard class.
With the shields on its shielded ram.

The shields with more than three or four modules stuck to them; toss in peripheral.

Next time wear gloves. Heat the shields up with a hair dryer on high (90•-120•) or a heat gun on low (125•-215•) . Or boil them in water. (Chris’s idea for removing most shields and caps, may or may not work for you: don’t boil in a copper pot)

The above should loosen up the glue enough to pop the shields loose without damage.

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thank you very much.

you said standard ram. On the payout rates, i see blank, trimmed, mixed and then shielded.

Standard be the Gold Fingered RAM it would have otherwise been shield removed.

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Don’t boil the in copper pot, why is that?

Because copper will leach some of the materials from the board. More accurately don’t boil in a copper pot you intend to use for food later.
Basically for the same reason you are supposed to immediately discard coated pots and pans (eg Teflon) at the first sign of etching or scratching. Polymers and metals that are pulled from the boards can eventually make you sick. Or worse X(

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Oh ok. I did not realize copper would absorb traces materials like that. Its funny that you suggested “boiling” them. That sounds like something I would come up with to try (already did on the male ends of power cords) lol.

I have a corded heat gun with a wide setting range. So I tend to just use that when a need arises.
Copper is one of those (scientifically) soft metals whth no self control and prone to peer pressure. It will bond with almost any element. I doesn’t normally oxidise much on it’s own but alloys can become heavily coated quickly.
There’s whole books dedicated to bizarre properties of copper alloys.

Again it’s not the copper. It’s the plastics it will pick up from the board materials. And some of those can make life miserable many years on with no effects at the time.

Personally I prefer sheet punched aluminium for such cases as it’s a fairly stable metal and inexpensive.
Some stainless alloys are the best though. 316, 420, and 440 in the low price scale. 316L is best but you pay for it.
Strongly resistant. Works well for replating so it’s definitely a good choice for minor component boiling. You won’t find that at the grocery store though. Need a home goods or household store like Crate or Macy’s. The up side is 316L is acid resistant to HC40 and Base resistant to 4 to 8 depending on the base used. So it will last.
I learned about 316L due to my love for extreme hot sauce. (As I’ve discussed elsewhere). Some stainless pots I’ve had actually show brittle damage when preparing sauces in the early stages. 316L Works almost as well as Pyrex.
Which is by far the best choice. The clear Pyrex from before 1980,
And any imported from Europe is good. borosilicate Glass.
Newer American Pyrex glass is just a high quality SL and doesn’t hold up as well.

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