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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 2:24 am 

Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
Posts: 3064
Location: Low DOS
Bimetallic sinks will usually go as clean al Cu radiator
Generally with the exception of the round ones with a full copper core middle it's more troublesome than the value difference
The round ones where they have a full copper colander that goes all the way through I use a press punch. Because I can stack them 4 or 5 tall and pop them all at once in 30 seconds or so

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 10:35 am 

Joined: Sun May 17, 2015 4:17 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Md Eastern Shore
On the ones that go all the way thru I used vise, old socket and four pound hammer and it came out easily, on the inserted copper plugs I drilled hole thru aluminum and used punch to knock it out. The full copper heatsinks I knocked the fins off and then used grinder to remove solder and cut the solder off the fins with tin snips. I ended up with 50 lbs of good copper that way so it was worth the couple of hours to do that. I had the time and I maximized my profit. The other mixed heatsinks like you suggested al cu radiator best choice.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 5:48 pm 

Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
Posts: 3064
Location: Low DOS
Heatsinks are another of those classes where each individual has to make up their own mind.
Some like myself and mdes here have found ways to make it work.

If you have the right tools and can find a way that works have at it. Yes you can jump fairly well getting them separated. With a few more than one or two it quickly becomes worth it when you have a method in place.
From $1ish per lb for radiators to $3 plus in volume per sink.

I found the break point to be around 5 lbs where the time is worth it. So tare a bucket on your scale and toss them all in. If you're over that 5 or so lbs you should look into what you can do.
I don't go through enough to justify the drilling method myself but I'll vouch for the fact that with practice it does work.
If you have enough pickup a titanium carbide iron bit. 1/8 or 1/6 should be the right size for something like that (I'd do two diagonal routes just outside the cu in the al and into the edge of the cu. you don't need to go through the sink; and then use a tap and 4 lb hammer and tap between the two drill points from the bottom through the al and into the cu to pop it)
Others may have a better solution for plugs though since I only do it on gigantic ones from servers and a/v equipment.

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-- my grades are my own and do not represent an offer from boardsort, nor are they guaranteed. Please keep that in mind.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 6:30 pm 

Joined: Fri Jul 01, 2016 6:55 pm
Posts: 161
Location: Texas
Yeah, I forgot about the aluminum bases.

You should be getting bright bare or #1 copper at the least for the copper heat sinks and the copper from the al/cu heat sinks once you separate the copper and aluminum.

I will separate the copper from the aluminum unless its copper tubing running thru a bunch of fins. Here I can only get #2 copper for that copper tubing even though it typically looks brand new and "I" think it should go as bright bare or #1.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 10:14 pm 

Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
Posts: 3064
Location: Low DOS
rdw1121 wrote:
Here I can only get #2 copper for that copper tubing even though it typically looks brand new and "I" think it should go as bright bare or #1.

And the rest of the world too! Lol
It IS number one but whatever. Right?

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-- my grades are my own and do not represent an offer from boardsort, nor are they guaranteed. Please keep that in mind.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 12:52 am 

Joined: Sun May 17, 2015 4:17 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Md Eastern Shore
I use a vise to hold aluminum with copper plug heatsink so then I separate center fins with a very large flat blade screwdriver, you will see small air hole in middle to let air out when the plug was inserted this is where I drill hole for punch. Make sure vise is bolted down and is tight on heatsink and hold drill with both hands I would not want anyone getting hurt with my suggestions. Go with smaller bit first then go larger, the smaller bit will drill easier and make a grove for larger bit. Just make sure to be careful of kickback on drill if bit too large, again be safe. Drill just to the copper plug and use punch, the bigger the punch hole the more surface for the punch so that it does not go too far into the copper plug. Once a couple are done you will get the hang of it.

Another item some copper heatsinks plated with nickel or chrome so I use file or grinder to do one edge to confirm the copper. The copper bases with tubes soldered in can be cleaned with wire wheel on grinder after the tubes punched out of groves, again be careful, use eye protection and vise grips tight to hold the plate and rattail file to remove solder in groves.

I agree with Lostinlodos the right tools make the job safer, easier and faster so if you don't have them get them as soon as you can if you are serious about scrapping because the more you do it the more chance of injury without the right tools. Yard sales and flea markets good sources, tools don't have to be new just in good working condition. Make yourself a list so when you are out and about you may find what you need.

AGAIN BE ALERT AND BE CAREFUL please.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:42 am 

Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
Posts: 3064
Location: Low DOS
Mdesscrapper , and anyone else reading this, as long as you show them as much most, if not all, reputable yards won't require you to shave the nickel (or silver etc) off a base metal to get the correct grade
If they tell you nickel plated copper is lower grade than clean; they're ripping you off. They're actually worth more (fractions of cents so don't ask for more unless you have hundreds of lbs).
Again if you have to strip a $4.50 nickel plating off a $2.50 copper you're getting ripped off.

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-- my grades are my own and do not represent an offer from boardsort, nor are they guaranteed. Please keep that in mind.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:57 am 

Joined: Sun May 17, 2015 4:17 pm
Posts: 34
Location: Md Eastern Shore
Thank you, I only did one edge on each to confirm copper underneath but I didn't think it worth while to clean whole and I know that nickel gets more but I have not tried taking my copper heatsinks to the yard yet as I am still stripping wire and heatsinks, I have around 800 lbs total but waiting for price to go higher. I have read that in 2018 and 2019 copper demand will be beyond production. What would be your take on copper pricing?


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