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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 4:21 am 
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This is the very beginning of a diy page on the (stupidity of) breaking down a board to the raw pcb.
This will cover 99% of boards but I chose a damaged metal socket mobo for this.
Simply because when /I/ finish pulling it all down /I/ won't be loosing anything. I've got buyers in place for these various electronic components since I deal with enough volume of this stuff loose doing repairs.

First I say yet again if you refine at home you MAY break even and you'll probably loose money.

Second taking ANYTHING off any board other than heatsinks and shields is probably a loosing proposition for the vast majority reading this.

Finally the values I'm giving are today's (time that moment) rates and are based on having HUNDREDS Of lbs of each type. Not 6 ounces or a pound.
Bringing 6 ounces of CMCs to anybody is just going to annoy them.

Finally I'm in no rush to finish this. I'll take photos as I go and post them as I move along but this isn't going to be a priority project.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 4:22 am 
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This is the post where I list the steps in order in text with notes.


Step one
Of vital importance if using the rest of this yourself.
Remove any and all canister capacitors.
They contain oi. The oil is under pressure. The oil is toxic (though not deadly or even dangerously damaging on its own). It smells terrible and is harder to get rid of than skunk. And later when heat comes to play boiling pressurised oil flying at you is never fun!

Remove any and all heatsinks you can. Anything you can't targeted heat from a heat gun on 100• or less, get them off. All they do is slow the process.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2016 4:22 am 
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This is the post where I attached photos

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:24 am 
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Uh. No
Ohkay so this is no longer doable for me in my old method.
20+ years of ignoring respiratory safety coupling with smoking has left me with both copd and pneumonoultramicroscopucsilicovolcanoconiosis.
15 minutes with a heat gun and I'm coughing up blood and choking so it's just not going to happen.

The alternative is a reflow and that's going to cost me over $20 in supplies and electricity so...
don't fudge motherboards.
My original intention holds true though that totally scrapped each and every individual component at it's elemental base a metal socket mobo would yeald apx $2-$3 at today's rates.
There's a place where even I draw a line of safety.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:25 am 
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By the way
WEAR YOUR SAFETY MASK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or end up like me.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2016 1:26 am 
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Here's my board before


Attachments:
IMG_1976.JPG
IMG_1976.JPG [ 1.12 MiB | Viewed 12144 times ]

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 7:40 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2016 7:27 pm
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Location: Sacramento CA
Sat Dec 17, 2016 12:22 am Lostinlodos posted:

Remove any and all canister capacitors.
They contain oi. The oil is under pressure. The oil is toxic (though not deadly or even dangerously damaging on its own). It smells terrible and is harder to get rid of than skunk. And later when heat comes to play boiling pressurised oil flying at you is never fun!


Due to logistics problems (CA is too far from Boardsort), I am admitting to my stupidity up front and that I am seriously exploring board depopulation to minimize freight costs.

In my exploration, I have "smushed" a cannister capacitor or two only to discover this nasty oily substance. Fortunately, I just "smushed" and didn't "zap" them with my heat gun.

Previously, in another post, you stated that you have a buyer for just about everything on a mobo. I'm not fishing for your buyer, but, I am curious as to weather you remove the oil from the aluminum cannister before you sell or if your buyer takes them whole oil and all.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:07 pm 
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They take them whole as is. They have a bin just for them. ;)
An yes; I pull them ALL before I even consider stripping a board. For that Matter I still strip low and midgrade (by hand now with snips and razors) but I'm not going to hand disassemble a motherboard just to post up comparisons.

I've smelled them before though, and have posted many times do NOT heat canister caps. One burst and it's possible to clear the smell in a few days. Burst a few more and it's weeks; months of stink.

I used to heat them to about 1200f in quarters and you can simply turn it over on a grate and think it and most of that area will simply fall/slide off.
Do use venting and a mask though the fumes are toxic.
You won't die but from experience you will eventually pay for it if you don't do things correctly.

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