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 Post subject: Help, is this anything?
PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:11 pm 

Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:00 pm
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Like a wire wrap board w/o a board.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:02 pm 
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These are fairly close to ones I’ve sent in the past. Ultimately it’s dependent on what the pins are. If it’s gold plated it’s standard pin board. If it silver pins you’ll likely still be at pin board rate.
But common is nickel plated pins which would be mid or peripheral.
This is a two issue piece.
If it’s gold plated quote it at pin board.
If it’s not gold plated quote it at peripheral.
Someone will need to physically look at the board in person to make a final determination.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 6:57 pm 

Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:00 pm
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Is there a simple way to tell if it is silver or nickel? Also from what I saw it looks like just individual pieces of fiber/wood that interlock to hold the pins in place. Would it be just the pins to send in?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:32 pm 
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As far as telling nickel from silver, nickel should react with sulphuric or hydrochloric acid, but silver will not,

But just visually they don't look like silver, silver tarnishes, turning yellowish or purplish, but acids cheap(ish) and stores decently well, so for about $20 you can buy a gallon of muriatic acid at your local home improvement store or battery acid at the auto parts store, and be able to test base metal vs silver for alteast the next 6 months with proper storage,

(Note that hcl won't react with copper metal, but will react with copper oxide, so if coppers involved everything gets more complicated, chemistry is a slippery slope like that)

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:38 pm 
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I’ve seen very similar setups in both telephone equipment and electric organs. The board being a plasticised wood and glue type mix.

Step one is a magnet
If it stick it’s plated steel at best.

On the assumption you won’t have acids to use; and Given you can’t cut one loose and head to a coin or pawn shop at the moment....
here’s a quick way to test. Chlorine bleach. A few tablespoons in a clean glass cup. Drop a pin in. If it tarnishes in a few seconds you have silver. Or plate.
Nickel with take days to have any noticeable changes. But will cause bubbles and after a few hours will begin to break down.

Once you know that it’s silver and not tin or nickel: email Chris to find out what he would class it as for quoting.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:58 pm 

Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:00 pm
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Great feedback. Really appreciated that information. Thank you.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 12:04 am 
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It’s been a while since I’ve redone a wire peg backplane with a complete replacer. While being years.
But
Here’s what I got: peripheral, telco (it was one class back then), pin board, and a custom quote one time. The last being a very high quality silver peg board from a Hammond, and he put it in a class outside of what it should be. I can’t remember if it was cell or hard drive but ultimately it was valued accurately (in my opinion).
The only pure silver “pegs” I every came across were from Allen organs and those are so thin as to not be above current low telco weight. The slinky spring boards I’ve discussed in the past.
The vast majority of this stuff is plated silver on nickel. Or silver on copper. It will generally fall into peripheral or low telco.

FYI PSA:
Do NOT burn that board. It may appear to be wood but the chemicals they add to it, yuck. Even if it doesn’t kill you it makes a hell of a lot of smoke.

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-- my grades are my own and do not represent an offer from boardsort, nor are they guaranteed. Please keep that in mind.


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