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I have a lot of stuff to get rid of, so I should get some of these ID'ed so I can start sorting and packing.

I've read through many of the ID threads and this really feels difficult. Below are some simple things, but I have many finger cards that are video cards, sound cards, various network cards, MFD controller cards and other riser cards that have RAM slots on them. I feel completely lost where to even start with those and there are far too many kinds to post pictures of every one.

But I gotta start somewhere, and hopefully when I do get this figured out, I will still be able to drop off at UPS store with COVID-19 going on!

First up (#1) are these from educational toys my wife used in her classroom. I have eight of these and eight more to break down, but if there is no value in these then I will just get rid of them locally another way.

#2 - Brass? I got these from inside of one of those steel riser boxes for coax connectors in a cable box or DVD player.

#3 - I have a number of these LCD display boards and also some LED displays with a row of gold pins. This one is from a fax machine or something.

Peripheral with the screen removed

Yes, brass.

Peripheral.

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The majority of finger cards (peripheral expansion cards)
are just that: finger cards. The pay rate depending on fans, heatsinks etc.

Most riser cards are peripheral or backplane. Smaller ones because the finger connector adds the same ‘value’ as two sockets.
Larger ones post a photo. Some can be trimmed but most should not be.

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Please don't take this as argumentative; I'm trying to learn. What makes the #1 card peripheral? That's better than I thought it would get.

Two ICs. Good components and Small board to components ratio.

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Some more, and I don't think you're going to want to use your phone for these.

I'll have to post groups 5, 6 and 7 tomorrow when I'm not falling asleep trying to assign numbers to each board.

#4 high telco

#8
Generally speaking midgrade. If they have two or More ICs sort that out and post pictures as they may go as peripheral
In your case looks like two can make the peripheral jump.

#9
Generally midgrade. Gold pins... sort them and post a photo. Most gold pin laser assembly mice can jump to peripheral.
In your case see above.
Also the bottom centre is a fluke and will go as peripheral.

#10
In general: The gold pin connector board will go as peripheral
This includes controller boards with a finger (edge) connector instead of pins
The motor board is a bit harder.
Without metal backing and without copper motor base low grade
Without metal backing and with copper motor base midgrade
With steel metal backing low grade (or worse depending on thickness)
With aluminium backing midgrade. (For now: depends on midgrade pricing)

#11
mainboard peripheral
Bottom left midgrade/bottom right peripheral

#12
Midgrade with onboard controller chip
Low grade without it

#13
Left peripheral, barely
Right midgrade

#14
Mixed wire

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FYI, burped (no air) freezer press down zip lock bags of wire make great packing material! As long as you aren’t putting tiny wire snips in it the bags hold up fairly well and the wire cushions the box a bit.
Dollar store boxes of 100 or 250 are a good investment if you plan to send sharp pointy boards and have lots of wire. More expensive in shipping but less expensive than fresh bubble wrap and keeps the box from getting holes.
And you get paid for wire, not for bubble wrap. :)

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Another question--there is a post here that says you have a post about degaussing a drive with the magnets inside. I've searched for awhile and not found it. Can you reshare? These are old drives I've had around for years that came from a variety of sources, and a few were from our personal machines.

Some have been sitting in a wet place and will probably never work again, but I do want to do what I can to destroy whatever data may be on the platters.

Thank you!

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3978

Specifically the shot below.
Just like cleaning a cd. From the centre to the edge in straight lines.
Add a few oval passes for good measure.
It’s not perfect (maybe 95+%) But in my history with recovery it’s damn close to being so.

Only two 99.9% sure methods work better. An expensive electric magneto-static degausser (a floppy disk eraser will not work on a modern hard disk other than ruining the heads and causing a head crash). And melting the platters on site.
EMSD depends on the “rings” of the tracks to some degree so it’s not 100% perfect. (Yep I have no idea how to describe it, lol).
And melting; look long enough and someone somewhere will have a tale of pulling a few bits off a melted block. Never say never. Etc

As far as my slightly paranoid viewpoint goes, shooting (or otherwise punching) a disk only says “I’m valuable”.
All you need for non-precision recovery is a micro grinder (Dremel), and a matching hard drive. And free open source recovery software
Buff out the bullet hole. Blast it with compressed air. Carefully swap the platters, and run an imaging with -i or /I activated.
Basically my way of saying (as elsewhere) you went through the trouble to get to the point of taking it apart for the platters, so mag them up.

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