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Is this a breaker for real???
What should I do?
what should I not do?
what should I watch out for?

Way to go! You're getting to be as bad as I am on finding definition breakers (pun intended)!
Looks like you got the sink off so the big board is probably going to peripheral on the very low end of that class. There's a fair bit of silver nickel and rare earths in that board.
The little one I'd go telco.
The front face.... I'd say pull one connection apart completely and test the contacts with a magnet
If it sticks heavy you've most likely got nickel or silver plated nickel. Which at $4-$5 pp is worth pulling them all out. (About 10 minutes work with an electric driver and heavy standard driver).
If it doesn't stick or is very light attraction you've probably got nickel or silver plated tin (the metal not the mistaken term) which Isn't worth pulling apart and should (probably) go with a high grade cbm category. Sn is around 30-50 cents pp . And few yards have a straight class and bin for it but most will pay for it under a close value class.
If it's more than 40 or 50 years old or was commercial there's a slight chance for clean silver but I wouldn't count on it.

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Circuit box on top, can stay, will be nickel or silver plate sheets inside but not enough to be worth sorting unless you have a lot of nickel or silver plate laying about.
I deal with both of these on server boards from time to time.
On the top one you'll be lucky if you get 50 cents in copper out of it. Just not worth the trouble.

The breaker switch...; :(
These are a nightmare for me for one reason.
You have a ⅓ chance of hitting it rich (relatively) but a ⅓ chance of wasting a lot of time. Most yards will buy that as a sealed motor; larger yards have a rate just for them. You see, you could have some clean gold in them. About $10-$15 worth at current rates. Apx a third of the time. Or you could get gold on a base, usually nickel or tin.
Or you can have flash plated steel.
There's the issue!
Once it's open it's no longer a breaker or sealed motor. They know what's in it and on the low end you're lucky to get copper breakage
⅓ Of the time you'll loose out substantially.

If you, like me, must know for sure; here's my method to make it easy to get in. Compared to a hammer punch and chisel. Use a multi reverse speed drill or driver. With a 1/8 inch carbide bit drill a tiny hole THROUGH each river. Now swap to a 1/4 or 1/6 inch carbide. Flip the drill or driver into reverse high and gently push the new bit into the hole until it's tight and stop. Now set it to reverse high and push down hard as you run the bit the wrong direction into the hole.
Depending on the rivet used it will crack, shatter, or simply be yanked out and up the bit. Regardless it's now no longer holding the box together.

Word to the wise in any of that use safety gear like gloves and glasses and some common sense to keep the box still and tight while drilling. I've shot boxes across the room when they slipped out of my vise. I've had rivets burst into tiny shrapnel; and have busted a few bits as well.
For some of us curiosity knows no boundaries.

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Ohkay I'm an idiot sometimes. I just looked up and saw this is the board above and not loose pieces. They can stay, if anything I'd pull the biggest capacitors off. But even as is I believe you're on the absolute lowest rung of the peripheral ladder.

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I was wondering if I took some of the larger stuff off if it would help

Removing those two will definitely help, this one not looking like it has a bus socket on the side.
The ones I've sent have all had a bus port (black rectangle socket with gold wedge connectors).
This is just at that edge where it's debatable. Honestly I'd say this one needs a second opinion if not a third.
Again all of mine have been rack mounted and this is obviously external. Let's See if MLS has an opinion; before taking anything off or sending it in.

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Ok i will wait on his opinion

Lostinlodos, im still waiting for MLS.

I don't have a direct way to contact him. Sorry but they do frequently watch the boards.

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