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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 4:54 pm 
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lucas01230 wrote:
Yeah nothing really works for throughhole mounted. I just clip everything off when I have time. Lately been busy...kinda time consuming.

My ryobi heat gun... 800°-1600° and only when there's a real legitimate reason for pulling something, and in most cases such a reason (working components or board repairs) i do it the proper way with a soldering iron and wick.


Generally yes. Slice them off and forgetaboutit. keeps my yard interested in my bare boards for the silver and nickel pegs I leave behind.


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 10:56 pm 

Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2015 9:07 pm
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Generally yes. Slice them off and forgetaboutit. keeps my yard interested in my bare boards for the silver and nickel pegs I leave behind.


You don't take those pegs off anymore? Those jumpers and stuff... I found that with the jumpers - a chisel works really well.


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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 1:10 am 
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I cut them rather than pull them now.

I cut them AT the board level as opposed to pulling them out. when I'm done the board is (relatively) smooth. Anything inside... stays inside.


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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 12:58 pm 

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Yeah thats what I have been doing as well, sometimes the components are just mounted to close. I just clip them pegs. Dump the stuff on my table and sweep it into my jar. :). I should get like a large glass or plastic board so i dont get other debris mixed in.

same thing with actual components. I just get for one type of component then dump it. and so on....

lostinlodos wrote:
keeps my yard interested in my bare boards for the silver and nickel pegs I leave behind.


They arent paying you extra now are they? or just interested...


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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 2:04 pm 
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I'm getting low grade rate. 10-20¢± range. When i was pulling everything out I was getting copper shred at under 5-10¢ near the switch on my part. Same as plastic copper mix like lg cell phone shells.

Double the pay leaving crap inside; since it goes to a pm refiner instead of a copper recovery company: according to them.

I'm not one to argue but I'm not giving them more than an ounce or so per board in mostly nickel/steel but if they pay more for it I'm all for more money less work!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 1:12 pm 

Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2016 7:27 pm
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Location: Sacramento CA
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Anyone ever try one of these to depopulate with the hot air nozzle?

Hot Air Temperature: 100C to 480C
Air Pump: Diaphragm Pump
Capacity: 24L/min (Max.)
4 Nozzles: (Ø3mm, Ø5mm, Ø7mm, Ø10mm)

I know that using one of these is not exactly mass production, but, I like the idea of localized and controlled air flow and temp. I don't like the idea of exploding thingies when using a sand bath.

Price points range all over.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 3:35 pm 
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That's a bit of overkill for simply depopulating a few boards. That's a full solder and reflow kit

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:06 pm 
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^ lol^ you guys to technical i just use a chisel ,file or fine pointed knife.


lostinlodos wrote:
There's no "correct" way. Personally I strip anything midgrade or lower BARE. Some times I'll strip better stuff too, like many high grade gold flash server boards.

I strip lowgrade.
Midgrade.
Some specific peripheral boards.
Metal socket mobo.
Gold cap boards.
Some specific dual sided or thick flashed boards.


pretty much the same 4 me anything that is under 80 cent sell/buy rate gets striped.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:12 pm 
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The kit cosmetal posted is very similar to the one I use for actual repair work. But I would never in my worst nightmare consider depopulating a mobo with one. You're looking at HOURS of tiny hole poking. Not even the best consumer boards are worth that kind of trouble to me.
Now a 14 inch drive controller from 1970? Maybe; with its short run ICs custom chips and solid gold pins... maybe. But not anything modern.
Unless you enjoy doing so; but you're not really going to earn your money in the time spent.

Not to mention a kit like that of any worth is going to start in the upper hundreds and the best climb 6 digits.

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