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 Post subject: Need help with grading
PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:53 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:23 am
Posts: 158
Hi,

Just wanted to see where the boards would fall. Is the picture with the motor even accepted?

Thank you


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 11:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2015 6:57 pm
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Location: Low DOS
Let’s do the mixed photo first
Telco
Green fibre with metal
Peripheral
Peripheral
Cd/dvd controllers


This first one has two options
As is it’s low grade. The majority of the weight is steel.
You can, however, upgrade this. Remove the screw from the axel. Now gently, but firmly, slide a #2 standard screwdriver under the and twist, at multiple points around the edge. You need to break the seal AND fight the residual magnetic field. It’s an electromagnet.
Be careful, some are stronger than others and can occasionally do some finger damage.
Once you separate the pieces (now midgrade) you should see clear access to the thin board. Bend or snip off a corner. Slide a #0 standard screwdriver between the steel plate and the board and gently pry it loose. Board, freed, is now peripheral.
The first few times you do this are annoying but once you figure it out it goes rather quickly.
And MOST yards will buy the electromagnet as CBM-1.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 12:11 am 

Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2015 7:23 am
Posts: 158
Thank you Lost. I was able to get it to mid-grade, but it seems that this board is printed on the metal, if that is even possible.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 12:38 am 
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there are a few like that out there. Be assured that the majority are not.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:43 am 

Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2017 11:31 pm
Posts: 161
Referencing the motor on the PCBD that was possibly glued to the metal backing plate.

WOW! I had no idea! I've done a considerable number of these in the exact manner in which you described Lost. I had no clue that when stripped, the board would go as peripheral.

Once the electromagnet is pulled and the metal plate is pulled off, the only thing left on the board is a chip or two, a switch or two and a photo diode. Hmmm, learn something new every day!

Out of curiosity, what is it that puts the now cleaned board into the peripheral category?

Thanks,

RustyFuryIII


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:29 pm 
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Location: Low DOS
Multiple ICs, silver contacts, gold and/or nickel connector.
Combine that with no low value material and a board that has no plastic weight.

Deisdude pointed out the rare problem you may come across where a “board” is literally painted onto the steel. These suck because you don’t know absolutely for sure until the end step.
I’ve taken to cutting the corner off with a heavy trimmer first just to make sure. Since the whole board could go as CBM-2 at 30čpp without any extra work involved.

Side thought; I tried turning one into an induction charger (wireless charger) by doubling the copper coils and increasing the current input for a stronger field output. It keeps melting the backs of the junk phones I’m testing on. If anyone wants to try that; and gets it to work, let me know. The premise is sound, it’s my implementation that fails. I’m creating too much heat to resistance. (FYI the phone or device must have the internal coils and support wireless induction charging to begin with) lol

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