Well, what you managed to do was literally break INTO the motor. Which is why those rings of plated and or sealed copper are there. You have gone an extra step early. Getting the motors out isn’t convoluted most of the time. They are only attached one of three ways, regardless of if it’s a 22” drive from the 70s or a 2” drive from a camera. The most common is glue. More specifically a thermal bonding paste. Flip the drive upside down. Position a cast iron or steel punch in the centre of the circle on the motor and give it a firm whack with a hammer. Out it comes. If it doesn’t work flip it back over, pry the top of the motor off, like you did already, to expose the copper, align your punch the same and try from the top side.
Less common but far easier. Screwed in motors. These have stainless steel screws, usually T7 or T9. Just unscrew it and bang the case a few times lol the motor falls out.
Finally, and it looks like these are them, is the case design that was flowed AROUND the motor. These are a pain; the motor is literally part of the case. Getting the motor out requires actually breaking the aluminium that has flowed over a lip or rim on the motor. These are a pain and I rarely go through the trouble.
These numbers are NOT accurate but generalised. 99% of hard drive shells are Wrought Aluminium. A VERY high grade. The larger scrap companies pay a premium when ‘clean’. 40č-60č per pound. Leaving the motors in larger companies usually pay a high grade CBM rate from 30-60č
What’s left of shells are manganese in the majority, magnesium rarely. You will never see die cast shells. The physics simply prohibit making such a die that doesn’t cause faults. Copper shells exist in heavy industry and aerospace where heat is a concern; but such cases are never for drives smaller than 5”.
If the yard is large enough motors/spindles will get a special aluminium motor rate. If not and likely, a high end motor or sealed unit rate.
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