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Learn to properly Sort, Sell, and Profit from your electronic scrap material.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:51 am 

Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2019 1:36 pm
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So I picked up four pallets of used electronics 99% of them coming from Sanyo electronics. This is essentially my first time trying to micro scrap and I feel like I'm taking way too long on certain tasks. I understand that this is going to take some time but I don't want to spend time where it's unnecessary. I'm feeling pretty comfortable identifying different board types at this point and as of now I'm taking copper aluminum and icy chips from all low grade boards. Should I touch anything that I think is mid-grade or above? I'm open for any advice. Thank you in advance.

I also have countless New old stock of home phones, cassette recorders, radios, dictation machines, alarm clocks, answering machines and some misc others. Are all of these were taking apart? Any electronics that's an automatic no just scrap for weight? Any electronics other than computers PCS and cell phones that are good to scrap I should keep an eye out for?

Thank you for all to help thus far I'm excited to become part of the community.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2020 2:40 pm 
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New old stock, NOS, is easy. ebay!
Most new open box, NOB, works well there too.
You mention old stuff like cassette etc. The US has the third largest retro market ($ wise) in the world right now. Retro AV has been popular for years and with COVID there’s a resurgence in computing and gaming markets.
Quick look at NES/FamiCom prices show a huge jump over 6 months from under $100 for a deck to nearly 500+ for some. Old Symphony AV tuners have jumped from )25-$50 to many hundreds.

So it’s definitely worth looking at ebay first.

From a scrap standpoint I strip any boards below peripheral.
I use a heat gun but others use electric chisels etc.
Copper, gold, nickel, silver, and tin prices make it worth the time for me personally.
Doing it by hand not so much.

That said if you have a tech background the retro resurgence also has made a market for clean, working, scrap components. So things like resistors and capacitors etc are nearly worth looking into on their own.

If you want to know what is inside something there a whole series of photo breakdowns and now a video series as well.
Called “what’s inside”. From game systems to alarm clocks to a lightbulb. :)

Also from the photos, you may have enough paper, if this is a recurring thing for you, to consider selling it rather than paying for recycling. Same with plastic and glass. Bulk brings value to garbage.

Take a look at the “what’s inside” posts for some idea where peripheral + is at and do some math to make decisions on lesser stuff.
I don’t go out of my way to scrap stuff that will only give me low/mid. I recycle it e-shred whole.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:54 am 

Joined: Thu Nov 05, 2020 10:14 am
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Thank you for the in-depth guide. I will definitely be looking into all of your advice.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 9:25 am 

Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:42 pm
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Location: Troy, NY
Copperbill,
Adding onto what Lostinlodos said: He's absolutely right about NOS anything (phones, cassette players, etc.) it sells fairly quickly, either to collectors or to folks that actually use the older stuff. Sanyo's stuff is usually pretty low end, both from a retail perspective and from a component perspective, so if there are loose boards directly from Sanyo, from what I'm seeing in the pics, there's not much there beyond midgrade, so your pile would be a good place to start if you wanted to "microscrap", as much I hate throwing that word around.
Aside from e-waste, my main business is dealing with folks who are rehabbing vintage units (think TRS80, IBM 5150, era) and connecting them to the people and to the parts. Prices for anything working from the 70's and 80's, not just computer related equipment (I doubt you'll find anything in your pile aside from loose boards) but any consumer electronic, especially if the original packaging is still intact, are good even for the lower end of the market, and they have increased over the past few months because of increased boredom and extra money floating around from the CARES Act (I have things to say about that as well, but that's for another time and forum).
Depending on where you are, and what gems are hidden in those boxes, I can help connect you to folks here in New England, I know a large number of collectors/hobbyists that are always looking for NOS things and curiosities.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 17, 2020 2:34 pm 
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Let me build on that just slight.
It’s clear to all who read my longer posts I’m a retro tech.
There’s one thing about us retro collectors that just blows minds to outsiders. We want original. NOS is far more valuable than modern new replacements.
I’ll take a package of sealed capacitors from 1976 over an identical new one from 2020 and pay 10000% markup on it.
As for board pickings I’m likely to still pay slightly more for a “guaranteed” working used 76 cap over a NIB 2020.
You’ll find that mentality sifting through old ebay sales. Replacing part for part is a drive for many of us.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 7:11 am 

Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:42 pm
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Lost,

I have some NOS tantalum capacitors and sleeves of IC's if you ever need an original. I just had to raid the stash to replace some chips on an AST sixpak plus.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 12:38 pm 
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Ah, the serial card from hell; yes?. So powerful IBM bought them to put in their own branded machines. 440, real time clock, battery backup. Full switch memory. 1/10th mil gold contacts.
If we’re talking about the same card there was a nice WE or AMD 3460 controller on it as well.
I laugh every time I hear or read “game port”. Considering hardcore gamers used the keyboard port or AT/XT bus ports for controllers. :)
Too much lag in serial attachments.
AST and AMD showed the world how to implement a serial system with that board. Sadly it wasn’t till the Saturn and Xbox that anyone used that chip again.

That board was 10 years ahead of its time and it took nearly 15 years to figure out how to use the chip again.

Fwiw that instruction code is still in use. It’s in the PS5 and xBox series X.
Not bad for something three companies, one of them literally doa by then, came up with in the early 80s.

I’ll definitely keep you in mind.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 7:43 am 

Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:42 pm
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Location: Troy, NY
Agreed. Still the easiest way to boost your memory up to 640k, and of course you can add/remove chips as needed and just manipulate the dips. RTC is nice also. I have a couple version 4's, which are a smaller form factor than the older versions and don't hold as much on board memory, but they get the job done.
I purchased a 5150 that I'm still tinkering with from a guy that does home cleanouts for a living, he had cleared out the backroom of a library and this was one of the terminals. Museum quality condition with model F keyboard and aftermarket Princeton monitor (monochrome green, sadly). Still has the original keyboard hard cover for protection and the anti-fatigue overlay so your eyes don't bleed after starting at acres of green for hours.
If you have an extra CGA card floating around, let me know.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 2:07 pm 
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I know I have a few Hercules cards in a box. I’d have to find the box in storage though. We’d have to make sure the port sockets match up. This was the area of The Socket Wars.
Email me if you’d like me to go treasure hunting.

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