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I have been dealing with sterling silver and plated items for quite a while and have done much research and testing myself on this and am confident in what I am doing. The fakes are usually the ones marked 925 without the word “Sterling”. I used to sell all my scrap to my jeweler who bought all my junk jewelry and sterling kitchen ware. He took it straight to the refiner he used in Richmond. The refiners would test and reject fakes and deduct your payment for sending fakes. Anything we send for scrap we always scratch the surface to make sure, but the first thing we always do is test with a magnet. I test every single piece of silver or plated gold and silver with a magnet first.
Authentic sterling silver flatware typically uses the word "STERLING" rather than "925," especially on American-made pieces from the late 19th through the 20th century.
Here is what you will generally find on legitimate pieces:
American Silver: Almost all vintage and antique American sterling flatware (by makers like Gorham, Wallace, Towle, International, etc.) is simply stamped with the word "STERLING" along with the maker's trademark. You rarely see "925" on older American pieces unless they are modern reproductions or made for export.
British & International Silver: British silver relies heavily on traditional hallmarks (such as the Lion Passant) rather than the word "sterling". Modern imported pieces or European/international silver often use "925" or millesimal marks.
Warning Signs (Silverplate):
If flatware is marked with terms like EPNS (Electro Plated Nickel Silver), EP, A1, Silverplate, or WM Rogers (without the word "sterling"), it is not solid silver—it is base metal coated with a thin layer of silver. (Don’t forget to check it with a magnet first)
For silverware (like forks, spoons, and serving pieces) and pie servers, the same basic rules apply, but pie servers and knives come with one major catch regarding how they are constructed: weighted handles.
1. How They Are Marked
Solid Pieces (Forks, Spoons, Ladles): These will be stamped with "STERLING" (on American pieces), traditional British hallmarks, or occasionally "925" on international or modern imports. If it's a solid serving spoon or fork, it will be solid silver throughout.
Pie Servers & Serving Knives: This is where you have to check closely. Most vintage and antique sterling pie servers, cake knives, and butter knives are two-piece construction:
The Handle: Made of hollow sterling silver, stamped "STERLING". Because it's hollow, manufacturers filled the inside with a resin, plaster, or lead weight to give it a balanced feel in the hand.
The Blade: The actual blade or server face is almost always stainless steel (often stamped "Stainless Steel" or "Stainless Blade") so it doesn't bend or snap when cutting.
2. What to Watch Out For
"Sterling Handle Only": Look near the bolster or base of the handle. Many pie servers and hollow-handle knives will be explicitly stamped "STERLING HANDLE" or "PATENT STERLING HANDLE". This means only the outer shell of the handle is silver; the blade is stainless, and the interior is filled weight. When scrapping or valuing them, you have to discount the weight significantly because of the filling.
Silverplate Impostors: If a pie server or serving set is plated, it will often be stamped "EPNS", "Silver Soldered", or just bear a maker's mark without the word "sterling."
I hope this helps. This is the standard I go buy when determining silverware or flatware. This is not intended to contradict what was already stated earlier in this thread just to pass on my experience over the years. I have been buying auction storage units and cleaning out abandoned houses for years and m an online auction seller. In this business I had to learn how to make money from selling this stuff. I now sell all my scrap silver plate to boardsort because they pay the best for the scrap.
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