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IT'S THAT TIME OF THE YEAR WHEN AN OLD MANS FANCY TURNS FORGETFULNESS? FUTILITY? FINANCES? It has been a while since I have posted an update on the endless hash board project. The weatherman gave us the coldest weather he could predict for our area for the end of January and like to froze the poor old groundhog to death, so I was not interested in knocking heat sinks off hashboards. When the weather finally did warm a bit, I decided it was time to begin work on the 1200 pounds of power supplies. Most of them were antminer, weighing bout 5 pounds each. I clipped over $300 worth of #2 insulated copper wire , and sold about $60 worth or shred tin from taking half the case off to get to the midgrade boards, which have a lot of copper and aluminum. Now I have those put back for processing later. Now I am started on the hashboards, cleaning the other, hard to remove side. When I last reported, I had just sold 850 pounds of extrusions from the one side @ 65 to 72 cents per pound. I had been holding the board in left hand, using the drywall knife to whack the board, which worked well, except that occasionally I missed and whacked the base of my thumb. With all that metal on metal, the drywall blade had gotten a bit sharp, but I survived. When I started the other side, I clamped the board in a vise, and whacked away. This method took longer, as I had to put board in vise, whackwhackwhack then remove from vise, repeat. Not only that, but the vise was high enough off the floor that I had to stand, and the vertical angle required that I had to strain to hit it correctly and effectively. After doing about 50 boards, I decided to revamp my work area. I bought a vise from Harbor Freight,, that only had one inch high jaws, with an extended screw and handle. I will show picture of the contraption as finally set up soon. I had a metal base similar to the oldtimey school desks and I mounted the vise on board, then mounted the board on the base so that when I clamp a board, it is slanted about 10 or degrees off vertical, so that my righthanded downward stroke doesn't have to offset to miss the actual board, making it easier to hit the heatsinks. Instead of the drywall thin bladed knife, I use the straight bladed machete (cheap one). It has a flatter back side to the blade and has more weight, a better grip on the handle, and one can vary the angle, force and torsion of the stroke. The new set up is at suitable height that I can sit in a chair, easily clamp a board, and resting my elvow on my ribcage, do the do-whacko with minimal effort. Without rushing, I can do about 60 sides in 40 minutes, or about 50-60 pounds of aluminum, ~$35 in an hour. And that leaves me with a clean board ready for sale, each weighing about half a pound, at a price quoted by Chris, better than the midgrade, but less than low peripheral, As I have pointed out, the problem wasn't the weight, but the volume the original boards with heatsinks filled...almost two inches thick, weighing two pounds each. So I'm making progress. I only have 8 or 9 hundred hashboards to go.. This tale should be finished now, unless you want to know the secret strike that pops the heatsinks off the board like popcorn . If you have ever chopped firewood, or hoed weeds in the garden or cornfield, the way you strike makes a difference. On the easy side of these boards, a straight down solid blow would knock almost all of them loose in one or two blows. That didn't work on the other side. As in chopping wood, a straight in blow sinks the blade of the axe, but doesn't make any chips fly. So, as you strike down firmly, just as contact is made, the machete is given a quick twist, as if you are trying to flip the chip off the board, which you are. There is a sweet spot, not tight against the board, and not on the tip. Another secret is the swing: the blade should be controlled by wrist action, not arm action. When I was younger doing carpentry, my brother would hire young inexperienced nail drivers, and even some who were middle aged, who could not drive a nail. They would grab the hammer in the middle of the handle, and act like they were trying to choke the hammer head off the handle. I felt compelled to attempt to teach them how to hammer, not that they would learn. I would demonstrate, by holding the hammer with thumb and forefinger, on the end of the handle, and drive a nail. with barely any arm movement, just wrist action, well, a tiny bit of movement originating in the elbow. After demonstrating the proper technique, and watching them still miss hitting the nail, I would show them the advance technique. I would start the nail, lay my finger along side the nail, then either turn my head and not look at the nail or close my eyes and drive the nail completely in 3 blows without moving the finger, nor hitting the finger. But that was 50 years ago. My latest carpenty project, everyone marveled at the wonderful distressed wood finish I put on the lumber with my hammer.
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